Where can I find the latest fashion images
Süddeutsche Zeitung | Discussion from 08/05/2020Too much on
Dana Weis explores
digital fashion images
Only the last sentence in Diana Weis ’narrow volume“ Modebilder ”contains a small thesis on the lack of innovation in contemporary fashion styles, although collections come onto the market several times a year and influencers are constantly posting their current preferences. Diana Weis sees the obsessive "quoting past styles" practiced as an alternative at present as an attempt to "depict the simultaneities with which the entire pop culture of the 20th century can be accessed online."
However, this rather banal diagnosis does not take into account the fact that “mood boards” have also been used in the fashion world for some time. References to the world of art, connections to everyday life, to the feel of the fabric, to famous sights, to travel fantasies or famous films are drawn up by fashion designers on these picture panels. The collection launched on the market is thus embedded in a cultural context that is based on reflected, far-reaching knowledge.
Weis ignores this practice and instead tries to address both the strategies of the fashion labels and the trends that are put online via influencer and Instagram users with a potpourri of theory particles. Usually you have to read in the notes from what time and from whom all the sprinkled aperçus come from. This is not only at the expense of the historical classification, but also at the expense of the definition of terms. A professional understanding of fashion, which sees itself as artistic work on the appearance of people at a specific, historical point in time, obeys different aesthetic rules and uses their targeted break with a different effect than happens in the consumer world.
Weis likes to use the vague concept of “creativity” that people can develop when they want to convey messages to other people about their current state of health, their longings and their actual or simulated social status with the way they put their clothes together. Weis does not get too far with this understanding, and above all creativity does not explain the author's most important concern: to actually be able to name or even understand the possibly other body images that are conveyed by net cultures as "expressions of a vestimental collective unconscious".
It is regrettable how little knowledge there seems to be about the history of photography. So you have to read about the street photographer Hans Eijkelboom that it was “not presumptuous”, his secretly recorded series of works “People of the Twenty-First Century” of globally uniform fashion looks among passers-by as a counterpart to August Sander's epochal work “People of the 20th Century “To see, with the leveling justification that both were great chroniclers of a time of upheaval. The presentation of several images in grids of the same size is an anticipation of the "representation conventions of the digital sphere" by Eijkelboom. Does the author really not know the work of Bernd and Hilla Becher, who worked conceptually with tableaus and typologies as early as the 1970s? And if you look at a family album in the mid-1970s, can you seriously claim that fashion manipulates people to “do something ugly, ridiculous, and disgusting”? Isn't this way of looking at things deeply time-bound and what seems impossible today can very soon be aesthetically ennobled again? And isn't it also a question of the age of the viewer? The older you get, the more the youth of the portrayed catch the eye and then you are very generous and find everything dressy?
The book lacks not only theoretical clarity, structure and linguistic persuasiveness, but also a sovereign, out-of-the-box perspective. The ecological aspect, sustainability in production or suggestions for upcycling remain completely unlit, the network is actually full of resource-saving fashion images.
Diana Weis: fashion images. Farewell to real life. Verlag Klaus Wagenbach, Berlin 2020. 80 pages, 10 euros.
Does fashion manipulate people
To do undressing "?
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